Updated with feedback from Cépage’s PR company.

The invasion by Singapore’s celebrity chef Justin Quek has put another flag on Hong Kong’s culinary map. After Cépage and Whisk at The Mira Hong Kong, he recently was the dining consultant for The Miramar Group’s The French Window inside the IFC Mall in Central. Surprisingly, the restaurant was not even half full. That’s probably why we were able to make a reservation on just their second day of opening. We’re always a bit cautious about trying a new restaurant so early, but it was to celebrate R’s Dad’s birthday, so we went for it. And Chef Quek should be familiar with the local market by now, right?

Entering the restaurant was like walking into a maze. Long corridors took us past the wine fridges and finally to the dining area. Our table had spectacular views of Victoria Harbour looking towards Kowloon side, through large floor to ceiling windows.

There were two set menus, the eight course Gourmet (HK$1,280/US$164) or the five course Dégustation (HK$780/US$100). We went for the latter. There’s also à la carte, which includes almost everything in the set menus. HK$600/US$77 extra adds wine paired with all the courses. But we bought our own – a 1996 Les Forts de Latour, which was drinking really well. A very smooth full bodied wine with great balance. Corkage was HK$350/US$45, which can be waived if you order a bottle from their extensive wine list.

The amuse-bouche was the largest portion that we had ever seen. The cep mushroom soup was like a course on its own…nice, but a bit too much to start.

The Angus super prime beef tartare was good, much better than Bistecca, but we still prefer it the old fashioned way where they prepare it in front of you. The grilled scallop with cep mushroom was perfect. Very fresh and juicy. Too bad there was just one…well it is a tasting menu after all. The pot au feu with foie gras and black truffle was very tasty. The pan seared foie gras was crispy on the outside and just right inside, not overdone nor too raw. When the pan seared lamb came, we all dropped our jaws at the presentation. The potatoes were cut into very thin strips, wrapped around a tube (I think) and deep fried. The result, a hollow wire tube made of potatoes – kind of like a stretched out Slinky toy. The lamb was very tender although the end cut was slightly over cooked.

Dessert was not as stunning though. The sampler included an almond cream, chocolate biscuit and a modern version of Tutti Frutti. They tasted rather bland and nothing spectacular. Really wanted to try the Tarte Tartin though. Anyway, maybe our faces showed our disappointment, so the manager offered us a special biscuit (a long one) with almond cream which helped regain some points.

Overall, the food was excellent and despite being open for only two days, things went relatively smooth. The waiters were maybe a bit too attentive at times as they announced in between every course that they were changing the cutlery for the next dish. Whereas we think they should introduce the dish when it arrives so that you can actually see it.

Chef Quek’s cuisine never disappoints and under Head Chef, Mickael Le Calvez, this is no exception.

– 17/20

The French Window
3101, podium level 3, ifc mall
Central, Hong Kong
T: +852 2393 3812
E: inquiry@thefrenchwindow.hk
W: www.thefrenchwindow.hk

091207 French Window - Entrance through wine cellar

091207 French Window - Restaurant dining area

091207 French Window - Bread plate setting

091207 French Window - Cover for the menu

091207 French Window - 1996 Les Forts de Latour

091207 French Window - Amuse-bouche?

091207 French Window - Angus beef tartare

091207 French Window - Grilled scallop w/ cep mushroom

091207 French Window - Pot au feu w/ foie gras & black truffle

091207 French Window - Pan seared lamb

091207 French Window - Pan seared lamb

091207 French Window - Dessert sampler, almond cream

091207 French Window - Dessert sampler, chocolate biscuit

091207 French Window - Dessert sampler, modern Tutti Frutti

091207 French Window - Bonus dessert, biscuit w/ almond cream