Review – Cépage, Hong Kong


Updated with feedback from Cépage’s PR company.

After trying the new French Window, we had to go back to Singaporean chef, Justin Quek’s first restaurant in Hong Kong – Cépage we were reminded of Chef Quek’s first claim to fame at Les Amis in Singapore. Having parted ways, both with their own success, the Les Amis Group entered the Hong Kong dining scene with Cépage. It’s been a while since we last came here. Critics were doubting its survival when it opened at the end of 2008 during the height of the financial tsunami. With a HK$14 million renovation cost, you can’t blame them. However, consistent good food, excellent wines and persistence proved them wrong.

Before our dinner we were offered the 48 month Joselito ham, which was very tasty and firm, but melted in our mouths. Since it was the celebration of the Winter Solstice (冬至), we went all out for the seven course Dégustation menu (HK$1,380/US$177) instead of the Table D’Hôte (HK$888/US$114). As the Chinese say, this day is more important than the Chinese New Year. And for the superstitious part of R (which golfer isn’t), it was fortunate that we ordered the ham as seven dishes is not auspicious for Chinese…

We opted to select a wine from their extensive 2,000+ wine list rather then bring our own (the corkage was HK$500/US$64). The sommelier recommended the 2000 Chateau Trotanoy from Pomerol. A very good full bodied wine with strong earthy aromas. However, it was a bit too overwhelming for the first few seafood dishes.

Nevertheless, Chef Quek Thomas Mayr did not disappoint. The first course started with a carpaccio of Normandy scallops with citrus fruits and Osciètre caviar. Very simple and all the flavors blended well together, proving that simple is sweet.

The oxtail consommé was incredible. Just a consommé may not sound too interesting, but when a truffle-leek ravioli and poached quail egg were added… The ravioli burst with the pungent flavors of the truffle and the quail’s egg was poached to perfection, runny on the inside. That made all the difference.

Instead of the marinated pineapple and lemon sorbet (nothing sour), C ordered a selection of cheeses from their wide trolley selection. I guess different people have different ways of cleaning their palates. After dessert, R was recommended to try the lychee oolong tea. Coffee keeps him awake at night (a sign of aging) so no coffee thank you. This tea was perfect and very refreshing. It was in the form of a tea bag, so we must see if we can find it at our local supermarket. (Update: the tea was concocted by a tea artist in Singapore, so I guess we’ll have to come back for more.)

We were so stuffed after the whole dinner, but when the petit fours came, one caught our eye. It was the sesame chocolate…delicious. A must try.

– 18/20

Cépage
23 Wing Fung Street
Wanchai, Hong Kong
T: +852 2861 3130
E: cepage.hk@lesamis.com.sg
W: www.lesamis.com.sg (under Outlets)
Note: Closed on Sundays

091222 Cépage - Main entrance on Wing Fung Street

091222 Cépage - Main entrance on Wing Fung Street

091222 Cépage - 2000 Ch. Trotanoy

091222 Cépage - 2000 Ch. Trotanoy

091222 Cépage - 48 month Joselito ham

091222 Cépage - 48 month Joselito ham


091222 Cépage - Carpaccio of Normandy scallop

091222 Cépage - Carpaccio of Normandy scallop

091222 Cépage - Angel hair w/ Sakura ebi

091222 Cépage - Angel hair w/ Sakura ebi

091222 Cépage - Pan roasted Monk fish

091222 Cépage - Pan roasted Monk fish

091222 Cépage - Oxtail consommé, ravioli & quail egg

091222 Cépage - Oxtail consommé, ravioli & quail egg

091222 Cépage - Venison loin crusted w/ black mushroom

091222 Cépage - Venison loin crusted w/ black mushroom

091222 Cépage - Marinated pineapple & lemon sorbet

091222 Cépage - Marinated pineapple & lemon sorbet

091222 Cépage - Selection of cheeses

091222 Cépage - Selection of cheeses

091222 Cépage - After dinner lychee oolong tea

091222 Cépage - After dinner lychee oolong tea

091222 Cépage - Dark chocolate-almond flan

091222 Cépage - Dark chocolate-almond flan

091222 Cépage - Petit fours, sesame chocolate

091222 Cépage - Petit fours, sesame chocolate

091222 Cépage - Petit fours, sesame chocolate

091222 Cépage - Petit fours, sesame chocolate

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  1. #1 by birdie on January 8, 2010 - 12:24 am

    Just got an email from Cépage’s PR company and I mistakenly associated Chef Justin Quek with Les Amis. Although that’s where he gained his celebrity status, he is no longer associated with the Les Amis Group. Had to make changes to the Cépage and French Window posts. Sorry for the mix-up.

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