Archive for category Food
Review – Fa Zu Jie (法租界), Hong Kong
This must be the most obscure building in town. C, having worked in the Lan Kwai Fong (Hong Kong) area for more than 13 years had no idea this place existed. Even if you did know, the dark alley off the beaten track might make you think twice. But, as their owners insist, the surprise when you reach the restaurant is very rewarding. And we agree. Click here for a link to Google Maps to see their exact location.
Opened for just three months, the chef, Paul, was from an advertising background but loved cooking from a very young age. He aims to introduce French methods (his training) with traditional Shanghainese ingredients (his heritage). The other partners, Joe (also in advertising), contributed to the design elements of the restaurant and Chris, an ex-banker, served as the maître d.
Entering the establishment will wow you in its simple and clean design. A huge contrast to the dark alley entrance to the old building. With a maximum capacity of only 26, there are three tables in the main dining area that surrounds the centerpiece of the restaurant – the open kitchen. This gave Paul the opportunity to interact with us between courses, a nice personal touch. At the back, the owners enclosed the back courtyard area with a glass roof to provide a larger more private dining area. An adjacent outdoor area is a great place to lounge out before or after dinner. After touring the restaurant, we were given some old books… What??? To read??? Actually, the fixed menu (HK$538/US$69 per person, minimum of four) was hidden inside each book. A very unique presentation until they found out that they have to change the menu every month! The name for each dish was also very creative, often having left us to guess what we were to have next.
Our first course started with “Spring. Snow. Dutch Yellow.”, which translates to bamboo shoots with Hollandaise sauce and deep fried capers. The bamboo shoots were very soft and it felt like eating asparagus…very nice. The next course, “Treasure. Hundreds of them.” had nine ingredients finely chopped and arranged on top of a braised carrot. The fun was to guess all the nine ingredients for a round of Coke on the house. Unfortunately we couldn’t get the last two…Now we won’t give it away so don’t expect us to disclose it here. “Miss Quail. Mr. Sanuki. Wax Apple. Woflberry. All are Half Drunk.” was like drunken chicken, except that the larger quail from Australia was used instead. Cooked with eight year old aged Hua Diao rice wine (花雕) and served cold on a bed of Japanese Sanuki udon. Very good. The quail was cooked just right, keeping it juicy and very tender. The udon was nice and chewy, just how we like it. All half drunk as the menu described
“North Atlantic Wild Scallop. Melting Ma Lan Tao. Shrimp Roe Oil.” was one of the easier to decipher items on the menu. The plump juicy scallops sat on a bed of mashed potatoes mixed with Kalimeris (ma lan tao/馬蘭頭)…a nice combination. “Diana Spicy Slow-cooked Beef. Wonton.” was also very tender. Diana is a friend of Paul’s and making subtle tweaks to her original recipe was a great success. The wontons were stuffed with pumpkin and onions to complement the pungent sauce.
We bought a bottle of 2000 Pichon Baron as they do not charge for corkage. However, they do offer a small selection of French biodynamic wines which are reasonably priced. The dinner concluded with a “Panna Cotta. Oriental Touch.” and for HK$50/US$6.40 extra, we tried their siphoned coffee to round off the evening.
We will be back to see how their creative minds tempt our taste buds with the new menu next month. And bring your cash as they do not take credit cards yet.
– 17.5/20
Fa Zu Jie (法租界)
1st Floor, 20A D’Aguilar Street
Central, Hong Kong
View location in Google Maps
T: +852 3487 1715
CASH ONLY
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Review – Bouchon Bistro Français, Hong Kong
In typical Hong Kong fashion, a slew of French bistros are recently popping up around town. First there was Chez Patrick Deli. This time, we went to Soho (Hong Kong) to try Bouchon Bistro Français. Not to be confused with Bouchon in Napa Valley by Thomas Keller. Opened for just 1½ months, the place was packed, even at 8:45pm…true Parisian style.
The ambiance gained full marks. Tight small tables all packed together intimately in typical bistro fashion. The buzz from the crowd also made you feel even more like you were in Paris. Unfortunately, the food was a bit disappointing.
We ordered the traditional bistro fare – escargots (½ dozen HK$78/US$10), steak tartar (230g HK$248/US$32) and steamed mussels (1kg HK$298/US$38). These dishes are the ultimate benchmarks for testing bistro food as pizza Margherita is for Italian cuisine. For the escargots, the garlic and herbed butter sauce was a tad on the bland side and that the snails seemed to be just added at the last minute didn’t help. They were tasteless and didn’t have enough time to soak up the flavors. However, dipping the warm, freshly baked bread into the butter was perfect. C had the mussels which was even more bland…maybe we’re getting old? Come on, don’t skimp on the garlic! The mussels were also pretty dry and hard. The steak tartar tasted OK, but it could have been a bit spicier though. We miss those restaurants where they mix it right in front of you. Of course it would be impossible in this small bistro, but shouldn’t they have asked our preferences first? And the beef was cut too thick and a bit tough. We did enjoy a nice bottle of 2004 E. Guigal Châteauneuf-du-Pape, which seems to rightfully enjoy a strong presence in the local bistro scene.
Dessert fared better though. Their apple tatin tart (HK$68/US$9) was very nice. Although the generous portion of apples slightly overwhelmed the thin crust, it nevertheless was one of the better ones in town. C’s petit plateau (3 kinds) of fromages (HK$178/US$23) was not bad and she was happy that they had Livarot.
We later realized that they had just replaced the old chef with a new one who arrived just a few days ago. A second chef in 1½ months??? Despite the somewhat negative comments about the food, the ambiance got us and we still have high expectations for them. We hope that their teething problems will be sorted out very soon and will definitely give them another try in a few weeks.
– 19/20 ambiance
– 15/20 food
Bouchon Bistro Français
49 Elgin Street
Soho, Central
T: +852 2525 9300
W: www.diningconcepts.com.hk/bouchon
Review – Alain Solivérès at Whisk, Hong Kong
Chef Alain Solivérès from the Taillevent restaurant in Paris visited the Whisk in the Mira Hotel, Hong Kong briefly this week. Jordi, ex-Gaddi’s sommelier, is the Head Sommelier at the Mira now so we decided to give them a visit.
We didn’t go for the degustation menu as it was a bit too much. Highly recommended was the Lobster & Curry (HK$230/US$30). Done “risotto” style, it was extremely good. Actually using épeautre (spelt, which is a wheat a bit like barley) instead of Arborio rice made the dish less rich and heavy. A hint of curry spiced it up so it was less creamy. Perfect! Especially when matched with a bottle of 1999 Courbis Cornas les Eygats from Northern Rhône, full bodied but not too overpowering. Thanks Jordi for the recommendation. The famous Taillevent duck pie (HK$410/US$53) was a bit disappointing. A bit dry but the truffle gravy helped alleviate that. Not as legendary as rumored, maybe it’s better in Paris? We’ll have to try it someday. C’s M7 Wagyu beef (HK$550/US$71) was very tender, but typical of Wagyu… where’s the beef flavor?
For dessert, the Exotic Delight (HK$110/US$14) was interesting. The coconut foam on top of the pineapples tasted just like a piña colada. Refreshing.
A good experience and we were told the “risotto” might be available in the future. Another good reason to go to Whisk more often. Their Sunday brunch is also very good too. Or maybe we should visit Taillevent in Paris first?
– 17/20
Whisk
The Mira Hotel
Level 5 (dedicated side entrance on ground level)
118 Nathan Road, Tsimshatsui
Kowloon, Hong Kong
T: +852 2315 5999
E: whisk@themirahotel.com
W: www.themirahotel.com/en/dining/whisk.aspx
Review – Oyster 18, Hong Kong
We headed to the eastern part of town to Tin Hau, Hong Kong to try a new oyster place appropriately named Oyster 18. We were greeted by the maître d, Wilson, who was very attentive and helpful. He started us off with some homemade black truffle butter and freshly baked French bread. A very good start but we had to refrain ourselves from eating too much. Then we were served a plate of Spanish ham that was aged for 36-months. Very tender and not too sweet. Perfect.
Then on to the main reason we came…fresh raw oysters. Our platter contained Kumamoto (US), Kondachi (Japan), White Perle (France) and Gillardeau (France). C’s favorite were the Kumamotos (which she encored) and R enjoyed the Gillardeaus with the stronger seawater taste. We also tried the Black Perle and Tsarskaya, which were also on the salty side but Gillardeau was still the best.
Our main course, the penne pasta was surprisingly good. The penne was al dente with the sea urchin cream sauce and runny ‘spa’ egg having created a magical combination that was amazing.
We were too stuffed to try the other tempting dishes, so we must come back for more.
– 16.5/20
Oyster 18
G/F, 18 Tsing Fung Street
Tin Hau, Hong Kong
T: +852 2570 0208
Update – Robatayaki Ichiban, Hong Kong
We were at one time so worried that our favorite Robatayaki place in Causeway Bay, Ichiban closed down. Check out our previous review. Just after Chinese New Year, we passed by and noticed that the street level shop had closed down without any notice of a new location.
Fortunately, we passed by a week later and saw their removal notice. It turned out that they were on the verge of closing for good due to the high rents. Lucky for us, they found their current location on Hennessy Road, also in Causeway Bay (right next to Sogo department store).
Inheriting the decorations from the Japanese restaurant that previously occupied the premises, the decor is very different from the rustic feel of the old shop, which had been there for more than 20 years. Nevertheless, the same people provide the same friendly service and great food. As they just reopened for one week, there are still some minor teething problems with the new kitchen. But we are sure that they will sort it out very soon and we will definitely be back to support them. Please help spread the word of their new location
Robatayaki Ichiban
12/F, Macau Yat Yuen Centre
525 Hennessy Road, Causeway Bay
Hong Kong
T: +852 2890 7580

























